The little-known wilderness of Serra D’Arga, in Montaria, is as pacific as my guide Agostinho describes. Born in the mountains, his lifelong passion for the protected region is clear through his buoyant narration. “Even some Portuguese people don’t know about this place,” he says, ambling past the vivid flora. A four-hour hike to the area’s seven lagoons with Agostinho is beautifully devoid of tourism, where you can enjoy creeping under the curtain of the Pincho Waterfall and splashing around in its refreshing turquoise waters — just watch out for the rickety bridge that leads you there. Then feed your post-swim appetite with a traditional forest picnic of mountain goat cheese, homemade cornbread and, of course, local wine.